The tomatoes start exposed to the air of a low fire, concentrating their sugars, teasing out their full sweetness and both firming and softening their flesh – that is to say, as their water cooks away, the tomatoes go a bit sinewy, but lax. While that’s happening, there’s a saucepan nearby of garlic mellowing out in a bath of oil and herbs. When the two are introduced, the tomatoes soak up that oil, and lend their juices in return. All is tender, all is lush, to which is added meaty chickpeas for heft, and the fresh tang of young cheese for quietly thrilling contrast. Fresh lemon juice at the last adds perk. The dish easily acts a main, on its own, or as a sauce-cum-side to grilled meats – deeply charred hanger steak is a particular winner.